Chardonnay

Chardonnay in Requena

At 700 metres near Requena grows the Chardonnay that Pago de Tharsys uses on its own for the Millésime Brut Reserva, the Millésime Barrica and the Cerámica Brut Nature. Chardonnay is one of the main grapes of Champagne and has been permitted for Cava for some decades. Viña de Eufemia hand-picks it at the end of August, and at Vera de Estenas it goes into the Cava Brut Nature together with Macabeo.

What counts in Chardonnay for sparkling wine is the acidity it keeps on the limestone soils of Requena as it does in Champagne. The base wine stays fairly neutral and, during the second fermentation and its time on the lees, picks up notes of brioche, hazelnut and pastry. The longer the bottle rests, the creamier the mousse becomes and the further the fresh fruit steps back.

South of Épernay

The Frézier family has farmed the same plots around Monthelon since 1823. Sébastien and Aurore work as récoltant-manipulant, meaning they do everything from pruning to bottling themselves, and they leave their Champagnes on the lees for two to eight years depending on the cuvée. For the Exception 2016 they use Chardonnay from old vines in Cramant, a Grand Cru village on the Côte des Blancs.

By months on the lees

• Estenas Cava Brut Nature 2023, CHF 21. Chardonnay and Macabeo from Vera de Estenas near Utiel, at least nine months on the lees, no dosage, 11.5 per cent alcohol.
• Pago de Tharsys Millésime Brut Reserva 2022, CHF 25. Pure Chardonnay, aged 24 months on riddling racks, Brut with 6 grams of dosage.
• Frézier Terroir Blanc, CHF 34.90. Pure Chardonnay from Monthelon, Chavot-Courcourt and Mancy, fermented in stainless steel, more than three years on the lees.
• Frézier Exception 2016, CHF 49. Vintage Champagne from Grand Cru grapes in Cramant, more than seven years on the lees, Brut Nature.

A comparison for two

Between the Millésime Brut Reserva from Requena and Frézier's Terroir Blanc lie about ten francs and a good year on the lees. The method is the same; the difference comes mainly from climate, cool continental in Champagne, continental with a Mediterranean touch in Requena. Our suggestion: buy one bottle of each, have someone else pour the glasses without telling you which is which, and only then decide whether the Champagne is worth the extra money to you.